Gareth Ward, the chef and co-owner of Wales' only two-Michelin-star restaurant, has publicly defended his operational standards after Ynyshir faced intense scrutiny over food hygiene. In Apple TV's documentary series Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars, Ward described the venue as an incredible place with nothing amateurish about it, insisting that he runs a spotless kitchen despite the recent controversy.
The restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star in 2014 and a second in 2022, making it the sole establishment in Wales to hold two. However, while pursuing a third star, Ynyshir received a one-star hygiene rating in February from Ceredigion council. Inspectors cited concerns regarding raw and undercooked foods, identifying significant hazards that were not properly managed. Consequently, the restaurant was ordered to stop serving raw lobster until improvements were made.
Ward expressed that the situation was a blow to him and his team, noting that they strive to be the best regardless of whether they are a cafe or a high-end restaurant. He emphasized that while they follow the same rules as everyone else, they go above and beyond to ensure safety. The chef acknowledged that some mistakes were made but argued that the accusations did not fully reflect their reality, stating that they dare to be different by serving Japanese-inspired raw dishes as part of a nearly £500 per head, 30-course tasting menu.
The initial inspection report highlighted issues such as a dirty floor, inadequate hand-washing facilities in certain areas, and broken equipment posing contamination risks. Management of food safety and the condition of facilities were categorized as needing major improvement, though hygienic food handling was rated generally satisfactory. Ynyshir responded at the time by characterizing the findings as minor issues typical of a busy professional kitchen in rural Wales, which they claimed to have rectified immediately.
By August, Ceredigion council reinstated the restaurant's five-star hygiene rating after confirming that all matters identified during the original inspection had been addressed. Ward shared his frustration in the documentary about how media coverage instantly focused on cleanliness, overshadowing the team's achievements. He noted the weight of responsibility felt by the staff of over 30 people and the potential risk to the business. The restaurant stated that biological testing conducted at significant cost conclusively confirmed their techniques were safe, compliant, and appropriate for a modern, non-conventional dining experience.
Sources: BBC News UK.