A traditional Bolognese ragù is not simply ground meat cooked in tomato sauce and served over spaghetti. Its flavor develops from pancetta and a finely chopped base of onion, carrot and celery, cooked gently before beef, wine and a modest amount of tomato are added.
The process begins by slowly cooking the pancetta in oil, then softening the vegetables without browning or burning them. Once the beef is added, it is cooked until it loses its raw appearance and begins to sizzle. Wine goes in next and should reduce completely before the tomato is added.
Passata and a spoonful of tomato concentrate provide flavor, but the sauce is not intended to be tomato-led. Add some hot stock or water and let the ragù simmer, partially covered, over low heat for two to three hours, stirring occasionally and adding more liquid if it starts to dry out. A glass of whole milk is optional; added halfway through cooking, it should reduce fully and helps soften the overall flavor. Season with salt and pepper at the end.
For a batch serving about six, the recipe calls for 400 grams of coarsely minced beef, 150 grams of fresh pork pancetta, half an onion, one carrot, one celery stalk, 200 grams of passata, a tablespoon of double-concentrated tomato paste, a glass of red or white wine, three tablespoons of olive oil and light meat or vegetable stock, or water. The glass of whole milk is optional.
In Bologna, the characteristic pairing is tagliatelle, whose broad shape holds the thick sauce well. Ragù is also commonly used in lasagna. Rigatoni, penne and other pasta shapes are alternatives, while spaghetti is not forbidden but is not the city’s classic choice. Toss freshly drained pasta with some of the ragù and, if needed, a little pasta cooking water so the sauce coats it evenly. Grated cheese can be served at the table.
For a vegetarian sauce inspired by ragù, lentils, chopped mushrooms, textured soy or crumbled tofu can replace the meat. They offer different qualities: lentils add substance, mushrooms bring flavor and moisture, while soy or tofu can provide a granular texture. Since traditional ragù alla Bolognese contains meat and pancetta, these meat-free versions are more accurately described as vegetarian ragù or Bolognese-style vegetarian sauce.
For a simple lentil version, soften onion, carrot and celery in oil. Add chopped mushrooms if desired and cook them until some of their moisture has evaporated. Stir in cooked lentils, passata and a little vegetable stock, then simmer gently to bring the flavors together. Season at the end. The same approach can be adapted with hydrated textured soy or well-drained, crumbled tofu.
Sources: elDiario.es.